Sunday, August 9, 2009

ON THE WAY TO PRASAT PREAH VIHEAR


JULY 31 - Tension is high on Cambodia's north border with Thailand at the site of the Khmer temple Prasat Preah Vihear. It's just a year ago July that the United Nations declared Prasat Preah Vihear a World Heritage Site, about 5 years after it ruled on the long-standing border dispute between Thailand and Cambodia about whether the ancient temple belongs to Thailand or to Cambodia.
In fact, I hear more about this on the news here than about the Khmer Rouge trial due in part to Cambodia's national day of celebration of 1-year anniversary of the temple being declared a World Heritage Site. The UN setting the border about 6 years ago and declaring the temple a World Heritage Site a year ago means that Cambodia can list Prasat Preah Vihear on its country's list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites and Thailand cannot make this claim. Nevertheless the infrastructure in Thailand is very good, with a paved road to the Thai-Cambodia border for easy access to the temple.
I heard that the road to Preah Vihear is good now...yes, of course, to provide supply line to the Cambodian troops stationed there. I could not resist the chance to go to Prasat Preah Vihear, in my mind easily the most spectacular location of a large Khmer temple. I have been there 3 times before always on bad roads...a 2-day trip minimum.

By 2 pm I was on my way with water, munchies and overnight clothes. The road between Anlong Veng and Siem Reap is paved now with mile markers and road signs. Driving time about 2 hours on good road now instead of 5 hours on a terrible road. On the other hand, the road from Anlong Veng to Preah Vihear, while improved, is good only if not raining since it is not paved, but graded and sections are clay not yet with red topsoil. No rain, driving time is 2-1/2 hrs; driving time goes up as the road deteriorates with rain. And of course, there is construction equipment along this stretch with which we must share the road.
The village picture is the village at the foot of the Dangkrek Mountains that form the northern border of Cambodia with Thailand and Laos. Prasat Preah Vihear sits on the mountaintop.

It's 4-1/2 hours between Siem Reap Town and Preah Vihear now absent rain...a 1-day trip! Amazing.
I shot some pictures along the way. Enjoy!

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