Cambodia Wells Plus

AWARD CEREMONY

2011-09-06T22:17:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Kessararam Primary School, Sat, July 30, 2011
Deanna Shimko

I arrived 7 am according to my invitation. I was led across the open courtyard to the front of the ceremony area (no auditorium here) and seated in one of the 8 wood chairs on the platform. I was the first "honored guest" to arrive taking seriously the printed starting time. I noted the second row of plastic chairs flanking the forward wood chairs. (Last year I sat in one of those second row plastic chairs... promotion!?!)

The students, their families and teachers were in the process of organizing the assembly. My heart pounded as I sat facing the gathering of the students who will receive awards today, the teachers and the students' families and photographers. My invitation came without instructions or orientation, and I knew by my seating location that I would be asked to do something.

About 7:45 am the ceremony began, attendees were greeted, the honored guests were introduced, and the Director of the school, Van Marath, spoke for 45 minutes delivering a complete report to the parents and local authorities about school budget, facility repairs and improvements, student demographics including number and gender of students completing the year successfully and those who didn't as well as those who dropped out of school.

Then Village Chief spoke, then the Commune Chief, and a student who thanked the teachers for their good teaching and care of the students.

Then the student awards: the top five students in each classroom in each grade would be called by name to come forward and receive an achievement certificate. In turn, the honored guests would present to a group of 5. A photographer was present taking a picture of the event as well as each student at the award moment, and the student and his/her family would receive a photograph. Some parents took pictures, too, and some parents stood with their student for the photograph.

We watched while dark clouds gathered and hoped we could complete the ceremony without the threatening rain. Everyone is not under shelter, and there is no place to go but into the classrooms.

There is no public transportation to school for students. Many poor families cannot afford bicycles for their children to go to school. Each year the Director of Kessararam Primary School tries to find a donor(s) to contribute 5 bicycles that are presented to the 5 students at the Awards Ceremony. Donors can come from surprising places!

This year a young man from Washington State, USA who is in Siem Reap now for 1 year and working at Shanta Mani Hotel and Spa, organized his co-workers to raise money to donate the 5 bicycles. One by one the 5 bicycles are presented and pictures taken!

At the end, many congratulations and pictures all around. Front row are the top student from each grade. Second row are primary donors; 3rd from right is Van Marath, Director of the school, 2nd from right is assistant to the director.

The efforts of the students and their families for good grades and regular attendance and the contributions of the donors had been recognized very well this morning.

Our Cambodia mission is a primary donor of Kessararam Primary School since 2008 through our clean water well; health, sanitation and first aid and information technology and vocational skills initiatives. I am honored to attend the Awards Ceremony to represent USA people who make this Cambodia mission possible.

UNDER THE MANGO TREES

2011-09-05T17:45:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Khnar Thmei Village, Friday, July 22, 2011
Deanna Shimko

A villager doing laundry and showering

at the well on the property of Khnar Thmei United Methodist Church in Khnar Thmei Village.

This is the first well of our Cambodia mission. It was built in spring of 2002 and located on the property of the Khnar Thmei United Methodist Church where nearby village families have easy access.

The well is surrounded by and shaded by mango trees. The shade makes using the well at any time of day comfortable.

Our Cambodia mission has built more than 60 clean water wells in 24 villages, 6 primary schools and 2 orphanages. Included with the well is personal hygiene and community sanitation education and training.

CONNECT TO THE INTERNET

2011-09-05T17:11:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Kessararam Primary School, Siem Reap Town, Mon, July 18, 2011
Deanna Shimko

Kessararam Primary School, located in one of the villages that make up the Siem Reap Town metro area, is now connected to the internet. That's good! No one at Kessararam Primary School knows how to use the internet or has an email address! Let's change that! The teachers want to know!

Sam P holds a long class Monday afternoon explaining about the internet, web sites, conducting searches, email addresses, creating and sending a message, opening inbox and managing messages. Mony Hun assists Sam with interpretation into Khmer language.

Each teacher gets her/his own email address and practices locating her/his inbox and creating and sending a message.

Author's note: This is Sam's third year teaching computer skills to the teachers at Kessararam Primary School and providing computer equipment and supplies. In 2008, our Cambodia mission provided an Afridev hand pump and well to this school of 1507 students.

FIELD TRIP TO PUOK SILK FARM

2011-09-05T08:21:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
National Silk Center, Puok District, Mon, July 18, 2011
Deanna Shimko

Early morning Mony drove out to Bos Kralanh Village to give the sewing class women a ride to Siem Reap Town by 9 a.m. - a few came by motorbike to our meeting point at Artisans d'Angkor, stone and wood carving workshops for Khmer traditional arts. From there we would be traveling by free shuttle bus to Puok Silk Center about 12 miles west of Siem Reap Town on National Hwy 6.

Last summer and this year, we have been teaching sewing skills for particular items for the ladies to make to sell in the market. Pat thought that a field trip would illustrate to the ladies the information we had already been discussing about producing for the market: e.g. quality, patterns, colors, styles, sizes, presentation and display. This was an adventure - to plan and to pull off. Would the ladies be able to come...from their homes and daily chores of preparing meals and caring for children!? It would surely be an unusual experience for them! Twelve of us altogether - Sam, Pat, and I, and 8 ladies plus Mr Sok, their mentor and organizer of cooperative women's activities in Bos Kralanh Village - climbed onto the bus for our free ride and tour of the Puok Silk Center

The tour was a beginning to end process of silk making from different kinds of mulberry trees to various stages of larvae feeding on the mulberry leaves. We were elated...the ladies were interested, absorbed, wanted to touch and asking questions!!

...spinning thread from the cocoons....

...dyed silk thread on spools....

....and weaving on a manual loom.

We topped the morning off with a Khmer food lunch at Chanreash 10 Makara Restaurant in Siem Reap Town. Total cost for the lunch for 12 people - just $25!!!

I had my favorite soup - boiled fish with sliced tender bamboo shoots in coconut milk with steamed rice.

The field trip was a great experience and a great success! We learned a lot and had a great time together doing it!!

THE FEAST

2011-09-05T05:41:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Siem Reap Town, New Riverside Siem Reap Hotel, Tues, July 19, 2011
Deanna Shimko

The day of Pat's departure (and Sam would depart the next day), our hotel chef Kosal Nou (who completed the 1-year Cooking Course at Paul Dubrule School of Culinary Arts in Siem Reap Town) invited us to a farewell lunch. Kosal's learning at Paul Dubrule School included French, Italian, Khmer and American cuisine. He has learned well about quality of ingredients, care in the preparation and cooking, and presentation, and his ability and interest extend well beyond the listed menu, or as Kosal likes to say"..."off the menu."

First, he presented stuffed poached fish

followed by pasta with chicken in cream sauce

and topped off with dessert of mixed fruit in sauce served in a dragon fruit boat!

And Sam enjoying the fabulous dessert!

HOLY GROUND

2011-09-04T22:20:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Khnar Thmei Village/United Methodist Church, Sun, July 17,2011, 8:30 a.m.
Deanna Shimko

It's Sunday morning, and I'm on my way to worship service at Khnar Thmei Village United Methodist Church. It's my first Sunday in my two months stay, and I am exhiliarated at the prospect of this familiar experience.

I always sit in the front wooden pew. In my 12 years I have never seen the Khmer sit in the front pew. I have a clear view to the door to the church. Every year, every Sunday this view and its symbolism absorbs me. "Take off your shoes for the ground you are standing on is holy."

Musical accompaniment to congregational singing is guitar, maracas, tambourine, drum and thro. Here Mr. Sok, an expert in traditional Khmer music and instruments, plays the thro, a 3-stringed wooden instrument played with a bow.

The youth of the church are the worship leaders along with Pastor Sokha. Here Sopheap Sath is reading one of the morning's scriptures.

Pastor Sem Sokha preaching on the morning's scriptures.

This is Sam's and Pat's final Sunday as they depart in a couple days. They take a few minutes during announcements time to say their farewells. Mony Hun interpretes their English into Khmer language.

When service ends an hour and a half later, folks linger and take lots of time for fellowship. Ahhh, I'm back on Cambodia time!!

BEAUTY IN PHNOM PENH

2011-09-04T20:42:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Phnom Penh, Sat, July 16, 2011
Deanna Shimko

Here the distinct and unmistakable architecture and traditional colors of Cambodia in the royal palace that is located on Sisowath Quay that parallels Tonle Sap River just north of its confluence with the Bassac and Mekong Rivers.

One of the many beautiful monuments at the center of roundabouts in Phnom Penh. Roundabouts are common in Cambodian cities and towns and usually have a statute of a traditional figure or image at the center.

BEAUTIFUL BRIDGE, TRAGIC DAY

2011-08-14T20:25:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Phnom Penh, Friday, July 15, 2011
Deanna Shimko

I was in Phnom Penh with Sam P and Pat L for two days of meetings at Resource Development International-Cambodia and US Embassy to explore resources for our program development and expansion.

Do you remember the great tragedy for the Khmer people? It happened last November 2010 on the last day of the annual Cambodian Water Festival (Bon Om Touk).

This beautiful bridge is the site of the great tragedy: 456 people confirmed dead—109 who lost their lives at the scene and 347 who died in Phnom Penh’s overwhelmed public hospitals. Hundreds more were injured.

The 50-metre Diamond Gate suspension bridge is one of two bridges that connect the 100-hectare (250 acre) Koh Pich (Diamond) Island in the Bassac River to central Phomn Penh. The stampede on the bridge occurred as concerts were ending on both sides of the bridge. Survivors reported being trapped by surges of people pushing in both directions.

The Cambodian Water Festival, which occurs on the full moon usually in November, celebrates a major natural occurrence: the reversing flow between the Tonle Sap and the Mekong River.

For most of the year, the Tonle Sap empties into the Mekong River. However, when the rainy season arrives in June, the Mekong rises, reversing the flow to dump water into the lake, increasing its size ten-fold. When the rainy season ends in November, the Mekong drops once more, allowing the current to reverse again, emptying the excess waters of Tonle Sap back into the Mekong.

FLOWERS ABUNDANT

2011-08-14T18:36:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Kessararam Primary School, Wednesday, July 13, 2:00 pm
Deanna Shimko

A surprise awaited Sam, Pat and me when we arrived at 2:00 pm for a meeting with the school's director and some teachers. Van Marath, the school's director, who

participated in our sewing class last year, had designed and sewed a blouse for herself from yo-yo's! Beautiful blouse and talented lady!

And another surprise...the school's sewing teacher who was in our sewing class last year incorporated making flowers and yo-yo's into her sewing classes for the students.

And one more surprise...the teachers in all the grades encouraged the students'creative sewing skills. Classrooms and the library are decorated with the fabric flowers and yo-yo's the students made. And most classrooms have displays of geometric shapes made from the students'yo-yo's and flowers!

I DON'T WANT THE WHEELS TO DISAPPEAR INTO THE PLANE

2011-07-24T07:42:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Siem Reap Town, Tuesday, July 19 2011, 10:13 a.m.
Pat E Lyon

I want the wheels to linger on the tarmack so that I can be in Cambodia just a little longer. As the wheels retreat and we lift off, I lean toward the window for one last look at my second country. The sun has set. I can just see the water. I see the straight palms against the horizon. And I know, I just know I will be back. Even though I've spent half a used car, I need to go back. I have oten wondered why. And I still do not know. I am like a puzzle of two pieces. One piece is in the United States where I have the most promising seven grandsons you could ever imagine. A garden jungle of weeds, a loving family, a skinny cat, and a cute man are waiting for me. But right now, I did not want to leave. I was just getting started. I needed more time to be with the village women. We have not yet found a market. We have only hope...that what we are doing will lead to something. Something we cannot yet see.

Their hearts are so good. They cooperate so wonderfully. Surely God will bless such good intentions.

These women help each other learn. Their craft is so different from ours and that is what makes their purses so appealing.

These women are close to my heart. We speak without words. Three are pregnant. I want to see their babies!

I leave them in the competent hands of Deanna, Mr. Sok, Mony and God.

On the plane I am reading a book called "Soul Survivors...Stories of Women and Children in Cambodia,"by Bhavia C. Wagner. I have often wondered how Cambodians could survive and forgive so much. Then tonight I read these words: "In each breath, we inhale hope, life and lovingkindness, and we exhale sorrow and pain." (-Mu Sochua, founder of Khemara, a Cambodian women's development organization.) What lessons these dear sisters have to teach us.

I leave now to see if I will fly to Tokyo or what other adventures await in this Thai night.

SO GREAT A CLOUD OF WITNESSES

2011-07-24T04:09:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Siem Reap Town, Sunday, July 10 2011, 9:56 a.m.
Pat E Lyon

There was a surprise for us in worship today. A bus load of Ohio Conference people arrived with Deacon Dee and young people en route to a Youth Rally at Battambang. In Cambodia, white foreigners are referred to in slang as "barang." All the Khmer men sat together and played musical instruments on the west side of the church. Except one guy with the Ohio people was from Mexico and he didn't have a drum or a thro or rattles or a guitar. Mony and I sat together and the Khmer women sat together with the children.

Mony whistled the Khmer hymns. It was beautiful.

The pastor gave a rousing sermon with six points. After the great cloud of Ohioans witnessed about their mission, Mony and I went up. I said, "My group is very small. But it gets bigger this week when Sam and Deanna will come." Everyone clapped. I told them that long ago, Deanna and I came to teach small children about Jesus and about English. But small children grew up. What to do? So now we try to get scholarships from people in USA for University and Paul De Brule School of Culinary Arts. I asked all the students to come forward. They stood in a line. Tall and sophisticated. Each one told their name and major. There were so many youth I could not see to the other end. (And two had exams?) I worried for a moment, "Will we get enough money to put all the little kids I just saw in Sunday School through school?

I also told about wells, toilets, pigs and pig pens, seeds and seedlings, etc. I said, "If Jesus asks you to help, don't wait for a committee to vote on it. Just help." No wonder I was in trouble all the time!

After worship, Joseph Chan spoke to me about his plan, outlined neatly and enclosed in plastic. He had not changed in the eleven years since I first met him. I asked him twice if the land belonged to him or the United Methodist Church. He pointed and talked faster. So I still do not know. But he has a dream of many things.

Then quickly, he bounded for his 4x4 and everyone jumped on the bus and they rode off in a cloud...of dust!

Dee was the staff person for justice in the Ohio Conference and they have a partnership with Cambodia. Hey, Wisconsin Methodists, we need to put some money and staff on justice!

MISSION

2011-07-24T01:45:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Siem Reap Town, Thursday, July 14 2011, 10:52 p.m.
Pat E Lyon

The beginning of rainy season has drastically affected our schedule, so I have not told you all the stories that are occurring every moment. When Deanna came, I started being able to sleep again. I seriously considered changing my plane ticket because there are so many more things I wanted to accomlish and so many things I needed to show the village women.

I took a great risk in coming to Cambodia because my mother is in very fragile health. I obtained the frequent flyer tickets last early December - a miracle in itself! Also my daughter is great with child. So I decided to start for home next Tuesday.

Last night my aunt got a message to me through a friend's email. Two of my mother's sisters and Uncle Bob went to see my mother. She always brightens when Uncle Bob visits. My aunt told Mom that Patty would come to see her as soon as she got home. My mother has been cognitively disabled by mini strokes. But my aunt heard her respond, "mission".

We are leaving for Phnom Penh to meet more NGO's so I write this in haste.

THE BIRTHDAY CAR

2011-07-09T06:44:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Siem Reap Town - Sat July 9 2011, 9:22 a.m.
Pat E Lyon

In the picture you will see a little girl in a new pink plastic car. Life here reminds me of living at Asbury Acres. At the end of the 70's we lived at Asbury Acres United Methodist Camp. It was a 500 acre camp with beautiful pine trees, a good fishing/swimming lake, and 2 small lakes. Mike Weigand Sr. was the manager and since women could not manage in the 70's, I was the camp cook. (No kidding.) My son and daughter, Mike and Emily were loved by the entire staff. Tony Fuller's brother, Terry was there, and Paul Armstrong, in addition to some other PK's. There is a staff of about 20 here, and they all take turns watching the managers' children. There is also an Auntie who has most of the responsibility. Isn't this car the greatest?

24 HOURS TO GO

2011-07-09T06:09:00.000-07:00

Dateline: Waterford WI, 7:10 a.m.
Deanna Shimko

In the week before I depart, I organize marshalling the things I'm going to take with me to Cambodia in terms of concentric circles in a geographical area with my home as the center, so the closer the departure date, the closer to home I can be. Yesterday was my last foray to Wauwatosa to pick up a gift of flannel from a friend, stopping at Big Bend to get travelling cash, then to a friend's nearby home for my last pick up of flannel. Now I have everything at home that I need to take with me: first aid supplies, personal hygiene supplies in travel sizes (bar soap, shampoo, body lotion, toothbrushes and toothpaste, etc), 5 metal rules and flannel for sewing classes, a bottle of 120 500 mg acetamenophin (requested via email from Cambodia 2 days ago) for our Khmer friends who suffer frequent headaches from poor quality food and stress of daily living. Today's job is to get packed - this is where I'll find out whether my lists worked well and I've really got everything I need to take with me. In my living room area I've opened out 2 suitcases, a backpack (my carryon), and a traveling purse (small shoulder bag to carry travel docs enroute and while in Cambodia). Around the backpack I've piled those things that will go into it including my camera and reading material. Around the purse are traveling docs, wallet, pen, and small pkg of tissues. And first aid supplies, personal hygiene items, sewing supplies, phone charger, some "On the Go" and rice cakes which travel well and make great treats in Cambodia, and my clothes. My task today is to maximize size and weight limits and get everything into the suitcases and backpack!

This last days before departure to Cambodia I have mixed feelings. I'll be leaving many good friends and family for 2 months and after 10 months of being away I'm going back to Cambodia to friends and village people who are anxious for me to be there! With me I take the precious supplies you have collected. Thank you so much for faithfully throughout the year collecting these supplies for the Khmer families. The money that you've given to the Cambodia wells mission has been deposited into the project's bank account and first payment was wire transferred to Cambodia in spring when building began and supplies needed to be bought and workers paid. There will be a final payment due about September when the work is nearly finished. Your precious money gifts become wells, hygiene and sanitation education and training, clean water handling and malaria education and training, toilets, piglets and pig pens, educ scholarships, vegetable seeds and fruit tree seedlings - a budget of about $17,000 each year. Thank you for your generous and precious gifts to make this mission possible. If you'd like to support the Cambodia mission with a money gift, please make your check payable to "Cambodia Commun Dev Proj" and mail it to Carol Lohr, Treasurer, Cambodia Commun Dev Proj, 8504 Caldwell Road, Mukwonago, WI 53149. We, (Pat, Sam and I) pay our own costs to travel to and be in Cambodia including airfare, visas, immunizations, interpreters/drivers, lodging, food, etc, with our own money and by raising money in other ways. Together we can do this life saving and life changing mission. We are ordinary people doing extraordinary things!!

THE CLICK PURSE

2011-07-08T06:07:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Siem Reap Town - Fri July 8 2011, 4:35 am
Pat E Lyon

Today was the second day of the most difficult purse: the click purse. It clicks open and shut becuase part of a metal tape measure is hidden in a cuff at the top of the purse. The idea for this came from an advanced quilter who showed it to my Aunt Marti in Elkhorn. I am not sure I am doing it right, but the Khmer women love it. It takes more fabric than the average tie purse becuase of the "cuff" and a large bow on one side. It also required stiff interfacing. They all want handles. But the handles are drapery cords or upholstery trim. At Jo Ann's $1.26 a yard. It takes about 1 meter for a handle. I found a few bargains, but when the handles are gone, they are gone. So we will have more of the clutch purses. After click purse, we will have the fourth purse made from a large man's tie. This will be a little easier to make because there is less fear of running out of supplies for this tie, and they can play with the design. They have learned to make inverted pleats, side pleats, and gather at the purse top. One woman made pin tucks. She has a machine at home and so came very prepared today.

The women would like to sell the purses, but they have told Mony they are happy to come to class to learn the skill of sewing.

And my dear, dear sewing class? Today one sewing machine was broken. So they had to wait or find other jobs to do to wait for a machine. And the very versatile Mony was able to repair the machine.

Sam arrives Sunday night. Deanna arrives Monday night. Deanna's bed is nearly cleaned off of ties and linings. The other side of my bed is lined with "kits" ready for sewing. Mony went out to look for containers so that we can organize Mr. Sok's inventory of thread, fabric, interfacing, needles, flowers and makings for flowers, jewelry for purses and general chaos. The Sok family has truly been the most generous of hosts.

Today, cat caught a lizard and left it right under the whiteboard for me.

ANOTHER CREATURE

2011-07-06T14:14:00.001-07:00

Dateline:

Siem Reap Town - Sun July 3 2011, 10:21 pm

Pat E Lyon

Another creature is a rat just outside the dining room door. I have seen him three times. He looks like a giant bratwurst with a short tail. Or a weiner balloon. I observe that the Khmer have a less panic-stricken approach to things like this than I do. For now I am trying to undemonize him by thinking up a bratwurst sort of name. Any ideas? And I compartmentalize. And I avoid that exit when possible. And no, I have not yet had a Kodak moment with him so don't look for a jpeg.

MONY ONE METER FROM ANGELINA JOLIE (NO KIDDING)

2011-07-06T14:14:00.000-07:00

Dateline:

Siem Reap Town - Sat July 2 2011, 12:05 a.m.

Pat E Lyon

Mony received a last minute notice from an old friend. Did he want to be driver for the party traveling with Angelina Jolie? Are you kidding?

Evidently the beauty movie star icon was in Cambodia to make an ad for expensive luggage. Only the fancy cars carried her family and nannies, etc. But Mony got to drive her make-up artist. He was very close to her. He showed me with his arms. She is very beautiful and very thin. When she comes to Cambodia they close down the entire hotel except for the guests already there.

Actually, he was more impressed with her personal body guard, who had more muscles than he had ever seen. And the body guard shook his hand. How much was he paid? $5.00 US

There is a drink named the "Tomb Raider" at the Red Piano restaurant in honor of her presence here for the filming. In the movie, Angkor Wat statues come to life. By the way, the "Red Piano" which has no piano is no longer painted tomato soup undiluted orange, but now hot pink neon. And they have added a water trough with a rail around it. I am not sure what the purpose is, except coolness. Mony tried to explain over a chocolate Sundae, but I did not get it.

THERE'S A MOUSE IN MY UNDERLINING

2011-07-06T14:13:00.000-07:00

Dateline:

Siem Reap Town - Tue July 5 2011, 8:56 a.m.

Pat E Lyon

Mony and I arrived early for sewing class. It was to have been from 11:00 am to 12:00 noon. But really, it is from 10:15 am to 1:00 pm and the women are still sewing when we leave. I began by writing on the whiteboard. We were going to have a meeting at 12:45 to discuss design. I noticed Mr. Sok's cat was very interested in a plastic bag of purse tab underlinings that I had left next to the wall the night before. Mrs. Sok said, "SHHHHH" and tried to scoot the cat away. I naively assumed there must be a cricket in the bag, or that it was a really playful cat. Mony also tried. "SHHHH!" It must be Khmer to "scat". Suddenly the cat found what it wanted. It left the bag with a fat "mou." ("mouse" with Khmer pronounciation) The cat proceeded to chase the mouse all around the house. Mony chaased it into a corner behind the sewing machines. Just then another student came in. She exclaimed about the mouse and cat. I shrieked and cliimbed onto a sewing chair. I was barefoot and wearing baggy crop pants.

The woman strided up to the mouse and cat and took the mouse in her bare hands and carried it outside. She handed it over to a small boy and walked back into the house and began to sew (without washing her hands).

I wondered to myself..."Is this rodent week or what?"

And all the way back in the buried recesses of my mind I thought quietly to myself "EEEEEEWWWWWWWWWWWW!"

I do not know the fate of the "mou". The cat seemed rather disappointed.

THE CREATURES NEARBY

2011-06-30T20:10:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Siem Reap Town - Thurs, June 30, 2011, 10:32 p.m.
Pat E Lyon

The smallest creature is the nearest. It is a tiny gecko about 1-1/2 inches long. He has tried to get into my room for days. I shoo him away from the door because he would sing at night like a cricket. And I once had a terrible experience of stepping on one with my bare foot and do not want to repeat it, especially without Deanna to calm me down. They have put something like weather stripping under my door to keep geckos out. My room is the closest to the rug shaking balcony, and I think geckos use it as a point of entry. But last night I saw that he or his friend had made it in. He scooted across the wall, just above my suitcase. I vowed to keep my suitcase zipped, because it would not be good for him to attempt the flight home. Outside my window is a large lizard...a duk doh that is the sound he makes at night: "duk doh, duk doh."

On National Hwy Route 6, Mony and I sawa dog that had been struck by a car. Its pretty face looked up at me with big German shepherd eyes. Two cars had stopped, with people standing around. The road has become very busy, and has been constructed to have two boulevards. This is a far cry from the lotus ponds and burning rubbish piles of ten years ago. I just prayed and prayed that the dog would not have to suffer. I do not know how it turned out.

There are beautiful white cows along the road to Bos Kralanh Village. I noticed one was especially thin. Its shoulders were caved - its ribs were showing. I wonder why since it seemed to share the same grass as the other cows. Since the roads are very bad from rain, we have to travel slowly. Then I saw two cows tied near a house. Suddenly one sort of convulsed and fell to the ground, upside down. I asked Mony if we should go back. He said, "No, the owner will come." A boy, about the size of Barret came running down the road. When we came back, the cows were not there. I like to think it's all right. But I do not know.

At the home of the tailor, there are many cats and dogs. One dog is very old and blind, but he barks anyway and then retreats under his table. I have wondered why there is just one little kitten. The mother would not just have one, would she? And what of the others? And why was this one chosen? When I was a little girl, I remember hearing terrible stories about too many cats or dogs. I try not to wonder about it too much, but I do.

When we go to the house of Mr. Sok to have sewing class, there are dogs. At first, they barked and made quite a fuss when we arrived. Now they just look up with one eye. They expect us to come.

Not far from here there are monkeys and elephants. Other forest creatures share the same struggle as in the USA. Humans are taking over their habitat. I am told that with bribes, you can work around the rules that protect the environment, and the creatures whose habitat is not protected.

JET LAG TV

2011-06-30T06:21:00.000-07:00

Dateline
Siem Reap Town - Wed, June 29, 2011, 10:28 p.m.
Pat E Lyon

Gradually, I am turning myself around so that it is now 9:07 a.m. and not 9:07 p.m. At first I would find myself just treading water and not being able to think because I was tired when I wanted to be awake. Then when I wanted to sleep, I was wide awake. I occupied myself by creating purse tie kits. I matched up a tie with fabric I had brought from the U.S. and cut enough for each pattern piece, depending on how much fabric there was and which style of purse it would become. During this time, I would watch TV beyond borders. There are 84 channels which includes many Khmer, German, French, Korean, Malaysian, Chinese, Korean, Thai, HBO, Star, AXN, and "F" which is a fashion channel. There are also channels that I think are like MTV. The Khmer MTV is very innocent. Slow music with background scenes of Angkor Wat. Sometimes the song is about romance that goes awry. Early this morning I was just perplexed at what I saw. I realize that music videos areartistic expression, but this one struck me as very far away from my American culture. I do not know its origin. There was a singer wearing South Asian clothing from traditional dance, but it had been greatly modified into a rock star two piece swim suit kind of thing. A man dressed a little like Liberace was dancing next to her, but I don't think he was singing. There were many dancers on the stage with her. What bothered me the most was that there was a large group of Playboy bunnies wearing white suits and white and pink ears as background dancers. You might want to laugh, but I take a real Gloria Steinem stance on this Hugh Hefner-inspired stuff. I have seen little grade school girls wearing bunny T-shirts. What kind of charm does this hold in part of the world where children are kidnapped and sold into a world of violence and depravity? Please watch the Demi Moore special on CNN about sex trafficking in the world and do what you can to stop it. Feminist Grandmother

NO LAUGHING MATTER

2011-06-27T05:49:00.000-07:00

June 26, 2011
Pat E Lyon

First sewing class begins this morning. I am very excited and a little apprehensive. Your prayers are appreciated.

Please try to watch the Demi Moore special on human trafficking on CNN. The feature is about Nepal, but the problem is big here in Cambodia also. Please encourage others to stop joking about or glamorizing prostitution.

DON'T GO TO THE MARKET WHEN YOU ARE PREGNANT

2011-06-27T05:37:00.000-07:00

June 25, 2011
Pat E Lyon

I cannot imagine how my daughter would manage to go to the market here. First, you must dodge buses, cars, moto bikes and dogs. You step under a kind of tarp and suddenly, it is dark. As your eyes adjust to the light, your senses are absoluely assaulted. There is a wave of odor that is like nothing else. I remembered it as soon as I entered. The smell of hot humans, babies who needed to go to the bathroom (but could not), fish, fish paste, something being grilled, fruits and vegetables. After you accustom yourself to the smells, be prepared for the sights! Chickens with splayed legs and exposed entrails reach toward me as if to clutch at my arm in desperation. Fish stare blankly into space with flies crawling over thei shiny bodies. Wilted long beans and herbs tied tightly into bundles lay in a basket. Red meat lays exposed on a board with dried pieces hanging above. Stacks of cane sugar wrapped in leaves tempt me. There are large bouquets of flowers. A post is pierced with small sticks holding bracelets made from fragrant white jasmine. To move about, you must turn sideways and try to be small so that others may pass. At your feet there are women squatting, working with what they have brought to sell. And just to your right, a young woman is working at a sewing machine, turning fine silk into a ballgown for a wedding. Ahead is a narrow shop where you can get your hair cut or your nails done. There is very little movement of air.

I am tempted to faint, but avoid it. It is wet under my sandals with all the things I have already mentioned and more.

I move ahead, trying to memorize where to find the material shop and the button shop, and a good place to buy shampoo.

This is the old market. It is one of my favorite places. And I like it a thousand times more than Wal Mart. By the way, at the air conditioned Angkor Market, you can buy frozen strawberries for $13.50 US a kilo. I think maybe the small pineapple and watermelon at the old market is better.

WHY AM I SO HAPPY?

2011-06-23T15:12:00.000-07:00

Dateline:
Siem Reap Town - June 22, 2011, 10:19 pm
Pat E Lyon

Well, it wasn't as romantic as I had imagined. Mr. Mony called Mr. Sok twice about how to find his house. Even though he has driven to Bos Kralanh Village for years, the crops are different and the roads are bad so we had to find a new route. Mony tried a left turn and went down a cow path that was only wide enough for one cow at a time. It dead ended in a rice paddy of unknown depth. Oh, wait, I guess it was a water buffalo path, not a cow path. In the distance, we see Mrs. Sok motioning to us to go back. Now Mony knows. Our road is one block over but not much better than the cow path. I close my eyes. It feels like we are about to runover a duck.

The greeting is much like I had described. Mr. and Mrs. Sok both know I am offering my sympathy on the loss of their beautiful son to electric shock. Once inside, Sok tells Mony that the women are in the rice fields and cannot come to class yet. They begin to assemble the new sewing machine Mony has brought from Battambang Province. Their point of reference is the other machine, which is a Janome in a Singer stand with a formica top.

But then the women do come to class. I remember their faces. They are probably older than they look. One tells about her headaches and I can see in her eyes that she does not feel well. Two are wearing turtle necks under a jacket. They have long pants and long sleeves. How does this work? It's siesta time. I showed them the purses we would make. They think it is very interesting. Then a women rises and disappears into a side room. She brings back a box, a treasure box. It is FILLED with beautiful flowers that they have made from last year's class. Diana Saw bought some and got them pins and clips to attach. I show how they can put a flower on the purse. Their flowers are exquisite. Much better than I could have made.

Quietly they agree to start class next Monday from 11:00 am to noon. Mony adds: "That way, no family violence." I could not laugh. We do a needs assessment. Two irons, two boards, new whiteboard and markers.

The Soks graciously invite us to stay for lunch. From out of nowhere, Mrs. Sok emerges with amok - fish soup with vegetables. There was a plate for bones and a bowl of rice. It was wonderful to commune with them, but I felt a distinct sadness in the air. Little conversation.

About 6:00 pm, Mr. Kosal brought spaghetti marinara to my room. It was delicious. I took ties apart and continued making its for purses. I fell asleep surrounded by ties. I awoke at 3:15 am. Yesterday it was 11:30 pm. I get up and continue with the ties. Soon I will blend into this time zone. It's good I am doing this now and not disturbing Deanna. But she has never minded.

I try to analyze why I am so happy. And I do not know. I just am!

Pat at the Wheel and Out of Control

2011-06-23T14:41:00.000-07:00

It's that time again! Sam Pritchett, Pat Lyon and I are preparing for the 2011 Cambodia mission. Sam departs Austin, Texas, on Saturday, July 9, and you can follow Sam on his blog, see link at right on this blogspot. I will depart Chicago on Sunday, July 10, and will continue to post on this blog. Pat departed Chicago on Sunday, June 19, and has landed safely in Siem Reap Town Monday evening about 9 pm Wisconsin time.

Thanks to many of you and other generous people who make the Cambodia mission. All of your generous money donations benefit the vulnerable Cambodian people: clean water wells, toilets, domestic hygiene and sanitation education and training, vegetable seeds and fruit tree seedlings, piglets and pig pens, educational scholarships to post secondary education for poor youth, first aid supplies and training, personal hygiene supplies and training, computer equipment and training for youth, sewing equipment and supplies and training for village women. Costs for travel to Cambodia, immunizations, lodging in Cambodia, visas, interpreters, motorbike and car drivers in Cambodia and whatever else is necessary are paid for by mission members themselves and with money they raise in other ways. Please keep the Cambodia mission and the mission members in your prayers. Pat does not yet have a blog, so I'm posting her emails here. Enjoy!! Deanna

Pat at the Wheel and Out of Control
June 22, 2011 9:31 pm

We have known the tailor now for about 6 years. We found her through Christine and Jnnifer Boehm. She has moved for the third time, but we have been able to track her down. She lives across from place where kill pigs, cows, chickens, etc. Now she has a married son who live with her in addition to her very competent single daughter Rothny who works two jobs as an accountant. Her home is two inches away from that of another family. She has created her own jungle at the entrance of the house with flowers and plants that we buy for house plants. On the other side of that there is a frog pond.

This year, one of my goals is to develop competency in sewing with treadle sewing machine. Hers is somewhat foreboding. It is a Janome, industrial strength type, mounted on a cast iron Singer frame. In the past, she has not wanted to serve in a teaching capacity because she is self taught and very modest. She does not know how much I wonder how she can sew without the help of Vogue, Simplicity, MCall's, etc. But now she and Rothny are very excited that I want to learn. Why, I do not know. About five dogs of varying sizes and amounts of fur move aside. There is a tiny newborn kitten in front of me. A pretty little girl about two years old clings to her grandmother because I am large, pale, and wear glasses. Mony needs a cigarette, but he's watching.

I must turn the large wheel at my right and get my feet going at the same time. There is no plastic here, like with my little Nancy's Notions "Babby Lock". (What a wuss name for a machine.) I turn wih all my might and they start shouting at me. They are probably saying "go, go go!" The tailor pulls me from the chair to show me. She spreads her bare feet a certain way. I try to imitate. I sew a little bit crooked and it makes gathers. The machine becomes un-threaded. Rothny tries to thread it from behind and upside down.

I am ready to give up but they persist. Once again the tailor shows me with her feet and I finally get it. Right-left, right-left, etc. Wow! Exercise and sew at the same time. Left hand must guide and pull fabric. Four body parts all doing something different at the same time. Good thing I'm not chewing gum!

I am measured for a dress and shirt. I point, show pictures, nod yes or no. I shoo Mr. Mony from the room to get measured. This is a probem. We agree to come again for another lesson. Adieu, adieu!

The next night I return at 5:00 pm because cooler. But sewing machine broken. She shows us where a new part is needed. I tell them I am glad it was not me! Pat L

ANOTHER PERSPECTIVE ON SUNDAY MORNING WORSHIP

2009-08-18T21:45:00.000-07:00

AUGUST 16 - No nursery for children here.

This is what the young children do during worship.

SUNDAY MORNING AT KHNAR THMEI UMC

2009-08-18T20:55:00.000-07:00

AUGUST 16 - Pastor Sem Sokha called everyone into the sanctuary at 8:30 a.m. to begin morning worship service.

Worship service leaders are all youth except for message/sermon, announcements, and benediction. These are led by Pastor Sokha.

Our Bible text for this service was I Corinthians 12...many gifts, one Spirit. I followed the Psalm and I Corinthians readings in the English translation of the Bible. Pastor Sokha preached on this theme. I can understand some...when I am not sure, I lean over and ask Mony "what?" Pastor begins behind the pulpit then moves away from it to make some important points. Because unfaithfulness between spouses is so common, Pastor Sokha often weaves this point into his message. In this case, he takes some time to talk about how important it is for each spouse to use his and her gifts for each other, too, to make a strong marriage and have a good relationship with each other.

Announcements included:

1. Pastor Sokha, his wife, son, daughter and Mr. Sok plan to visit women prisoners and will take milk, juice, cookies and personal hygiene items they bought for presents for the women prisoners. It has taken some time to get permission from the Kingdom of Cambodia Penal Ministry to have contact with the prisoners.

2. Pray for 4 youth from Khnar Thmei UMC who are going Mon-Wed, Aug 17-19, to training at UMC in Sisiphon Town, Banteay Meanchey Province adjacent to Siem Reap Province. Last year when they went to similar youth event for 3 days at UMC in Sisiphon Town, all their money and jewelry were stolen...later found out it was by the village chief (you can understand this as the mayor of Sisiphon Town).

3. Pray for Rev. Pirhum, a friend, colleague and good study/mission partner of Pastor Sokha,
who is going to teach in Koh Kong (province in southwest Cambodia on the coast and far away from Siem Reap).

Pray of thanksgiving over the offering.

TRAFFIC LAWS -- REALLY!

2009-08-15T00:14:00.000-07:00

AUGUST 7 - I observed a new pattern in Siem Reap Town. Teams of police constituting check points located throughout Siem Reap Town...main streets and side streets. One morning, I glanced out my 3rd floor guest house window to see our drivers and hotel personnel standing at the street gesturing southward and talking. I looked around and could see a check point less than a block south of the guest house. I got out my camera and started taking pictures...through the glass.

Later I went downstairs...the check point still there...and folks were happy to tell me everything about this new enforcement of traffic law. Cambodia has a new law that all motorbike drivers must wear a helmet. Police are pulling over motorbikes when they don't see or to check if the driver is wearing a helmet, correct rear view mirrors are fixed and the import tax is paid/license plate. When a vehicle is brought into Cambodia, the buyer/owner must pay an import tax...only upon proof of payment can the buyer/owner register the vehicle and get a license plate. Cambodia is cracking down on enforcement of this now.

And for cars, buses and trucks, too. For the import tax and license plate and for wearing seat belts. Although usually police would not pull over a vehicle that had tourists in it. I think because they wisely thought that this kind of delay would be a nuisance for tourists and not be good for tourist business.

To overcome corruption and get good enforcement, police from Phnom Penh are stationed in Siem Reap Town to do enforcement...because they do not have family here and do not know the people, so they have nothing to lose when they enforce the traffic laws.

Several of the tuk tuk/motorbike drivers had appointments in the next several hours to pick up tourists. They did not want to get onto the public road with the police nearby because they did not pay the import tax, did not register the vehicle and did not have license plate.

Mony did not renew his car registration for 2009. I sent him over to the Department of Motor Vehicles to do this. He also did not have his car registered for business use--another fee. Instead his brother-in-law gave him the decal which Mony affixed to his right front windshield.

On the way to afternoon class at Khnar Thmei Village, we got pulled over. Mony could not show the policeman the receipt for purchase of the business use decal, and made excuse that he forgot to put the receipt in his car with other car papers but had it at home. After some negotiations, Mony paid 10500 riel ($2.50US) and the policeman let us go on.

Next day I sent Mony to the Department of Motor Vehicles again to buy his 2009 business use permit...get decal and receipt...put in car. So far after all this...Mony's car is legal now...we don't get stopped.

COTTON AND THREAD

2009-08-14T23:34:00.000-07:00

AUGUST 2 - At Sunday morning worship during announcements time, I presented items which were given for Khnar Thmei Church.

To Mr. Sok, I presented Avira anti-virus on a flashdrive, Photoshop on a CD, and a surge protector for the computer our program provided 4 years ago which is at his house in Bos Kralanh Village for the use of our students in the village. Sam Pritchett had evaluated the computer in July and he bought these items for it.

To Pastor Sokha, I presented 2 large bags of first aid (bandaids, gauze pads, adhesive tape, scissors, rubbing alcohol, triple antibacterial ointment, cotton balls, tweezers, disposable latex gloves, Q-Tips, etc.) and personal hygiene items (bar soaps, combs, toothbrushes, toothpaste, dental floss, mouthwash, body lotion, shampoo, hair conditioner). These precious items were donated primarily by the good folks of Brodhead United Methodist Church. Pastor Sokha distributed personal hygiene items to the folks immediately and will use the first aid supplies to replenish the church's supply which is available to anyone in Khnar Thmei Village who needs something.

To Chantrya, president of Khnar Thmei United Methodist Women, I presented thread and cotton fabric. Two years ago, Suzanne Woggon and Pat Lyon, began sewing training for the Khnar Thmei women. They and their friends have bought 2 treadle/electric sewing machines, provided cloth book for young child training, making a simple purse training, field trip to Siem Reap Town to look at cloth products being marketed, planning for making clothes for family members, uniforms for school children and items to sell. On and on we provide sewing supplies and training for the Khnar Thmei women.

Pat and Suzanne and their friends donated a large box of thread. Memorial United Methodist Women, Greenfield, provided 3 complete sets of all colors of thread plus 2 large boxes of cotton fabric of all colors and patterns. This gave Chantrya a good opportunity to talk about the sewing project. Then she called all the women forward to sing "Thank you, thank you, Teacher, from our hearts" in Khmer and English!

I reserved a small portion of the cotton fabric and thread donated by Memorial United Methodist Women and I gave them to the sewing teacher at Kessararam Primary School in Siem Reap Town. Children in grades three through six, boys and girls, have sewing class as part of their curriculum where they learn to stitch perfectly by hand.

ENGLISH CLASS @ KHNAR THMEI CHURCH

2009-08-14T23:14:00.001-07:00

AUGUST 3 - English class resumed at Khnar Thmei Church today. The students asked if I could teach about job application letters. In my class are high school students and our two sponsored university students ready to begin second year on August 11. Our two sponsored students: Sangleen Kheav front row second from left and Tap Soda back row second from right.

I happily agreed thinking this was a very practical request. At this distance from my usual base of resources in Wisconsin, the internet is a great resource. I bring very few specific printed resources these days for teaching classes as there are some available in print in Siem Reap Town in the older and especially newer bookshops plus the internet is a vast resource on any topic...text and pictures.

While English class goes on inside Khnar Thmei Church, take a peek at the scene outside!

PRASAT PREAH VIHEAR - THE BEAUTY

2009-08-10T21:23:00.000-07:00

AUGUST 1 - Preah Vihear Temple is a Khmer temple situated atop a cliff named Pey Tadi in the Dangkrek Mountains.

On June 15, 1962, the International Court of Justice in The Hague ruled that the temple and surrounding land lay in Cambodia territory and that any antiquities such as sculptures that Thailand had removed from the temple must be returned. On July 7, 2008, the temple was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Preah Vihear Temple has the most spectacular setting of all the Khmer temples built in the 6-centuries-long Khmer empire. It is a key edifice of the empire's spiritual life. It is unusually constructed along a long north-south axis rather than the conventional rectangular plan with orientation toward the east.

Construction of the temple began in the early 9th century. It was added to from to time as evidenced by the variety of styles. But most of the temple was constructed during the reigns of Khmer kings Suryavarman I (1002-1050) and Suryavarman II (1113-1150).

Shortly after 1904 when the French colonials took an interest in IndoChine and in their attempt to demarcate the borders of their IndoChine territories, the French discovered Preah Vihear Temple and drew their map with the Cambodian border north of the temple.

The temple runs 2600 feet along a north-south axis consisting of a causeway and stone staircases leading up the hill towards the sanctuary which sits at the southern end of the complex 390 feet higher than the northern end. it is 1720 feet above the Cambodian plain and 2050 feet above sea level.

One of the masterpieces of Preah Vihear Temple is the large bas relief panel in stone depicting The Churning of the Ocean of Milk (pictured below), the Hindu creation myth and one of the most famous episodes in the Puranas. This same bas relief is also found at Angkor Wat.

HERE, EAT THIS

2009-08-10T04:27:00.000-07:00

AUGUST 1 - We arrived Siem Reap Town from Preah Vihear temple about 6:00 p.m. I invited Mony, my driver, to dinner...his choice. That meant traditional Khmer food...which is what I'm eating daily anyway except for my morning yogurt with daily vitamins. Traditional Khmer food is based largely on sour or fermented fish, soup, vegetables, rice...except for the largest portion of the diet which is steamed rice for every meal.

Mony selected a sidewalk Khmer restaurant for carry out which we set up on one of the tables in the restaurant area of Siem Reap Riverside Guest House.

Steamed rice came out of one plastic bag and was piled onto our two plates. Meat with leaves (Khmer refer to as "vegetables")--contents of another plastic bag were dumped into a bowl. Small, small plastic bag gave up lemon sauce with red chilies. Another plastic bag emptied of fresh green papaya salad.

I picked up my chop sticks and began adding to the top of my steamed rice the one thing in the meat bag I could identify...chunks of pig intestines. Within a nanosecond Mony plopped other looking chunks on top of my steamed rice saying, "here, Deanna, take this, it's good; pig's nose, tongue and ears...it's good meat! Here, eat this!"

I did...all.

P.S. Passing on the pictures this time.

PREAH VIHEAR - THE TENSION

2009-08-09T21:21:00.000-07:00

AUGUST 1 - There are tens of thousands of troops on the Thai-Cambodia border at Preah Vihear Temple--more Thai than Cambodian. At some points the Thai and Cambodian soldiers are face to face. My Cambodian friends tell me the Thai are better armed and outfitted than the Cambodian troops. This has been the situation since before UNESCO declared the temple a World Heritage Site more than a year ago as the Thais lobbied and demonstrated against the declaration that the temple belongs to Cambodia.

Fortunately talks between Thai and Cambodian diplomats and high officials continue. I tell my Khmer friends that as long as talks are going on, there is hope for a good result/agreement ultimately. Stop talks--bad sign.

Very few tourists today...about ten including me and my driver. All from the Cambodia side because the border crossing here is closed. Visitors from Cambodia side used to be able to walk across the border for a day into the Thai markets and visitors from the Thai side were able to walk across the border for the day into the temple and Cambodian markets.

Another difference is the thousands of soldiers--everywhere...on the temple, in the temple, around the temple, road up to the temple, along the border. There are foxholes with guns and rockets positioned towards Thailand.

On this day a delegation of high military officials and judges was inspecting the situation here. Soldiers stationed here and the visiting inspectors were all friendly. I was able to exchange greetings, short conversations and get pictures.

Did you see the soldier in camaflouge against the temple wall?

CMAC -- Cambodia Mine Action Center deminers are working to broaden the areas that are free of landmines and unexploded ordinances around the temple and along the border on the Cambodian side so the military can maneuver safely. CMAC is an organization of Khmer deminers -- trained by France and funded by France and Germany.

ON THE WAY TO PRASAT PREAH VIHEAR

2009-08-09T02:51:00.000-07:00

JULY 31 - Tension is high on Cambodia's north border with Thailand at the site of the Khmer temple Prasat Preah Vihear. It's just a year ago July that the United Nations declared Prasat Preah Vihear a World Heritage Site, about 5 years after it ruled on the long-standing border dispute between Thailand and Cambodia about whether the ancient temple belongs to Thailand or to Cambodia.

In fact, I hear more about this on the news here than about the Khmer Rouge trial due in part to Cambodia's national day of celebration of 1-year anniversary of the temple being declared a World Heritage Site. The UN setting the border about 6 years ago and declaring the temple a World Heritage Site a year ago means that Cambodia can list Prasat Preah Vihear on its country's list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites and Thailand cannot make this claim. Nevertheless the infrastructure in Thailand is very good, with a paved road to the Thai-Cambodia border for easy access to the temple.

I heard that the road to Preah Vihear is good now...yes, of course, to provide supply line to the Cambodian troops stationed there. I could not resist the chance to go to Prasat Preah Vihear, in my mind easily the most spectacular location of a large Khmer temple. I have been there 3 times before always on bad roads...a 2-day trip minimum.

By 2 pm I was on my way with water, munchies and overnight clothes. The road between Anlong Veng and Siem Reap is paved now with mile markers and road signs. Driving time about 2 hours on good road now instead of 5 hours on a terrible road. On the other hand, the road from Anlong Veng to Preah Vihear, while improved, is good only if not raining since it is not paved, but graded and sections are clay not yet with red topsoil. No rain, driving time is 2-1/2 hrs; driving time goes up as the road deteriorates with rain. And of course, there is construction equipment along this stretch with which we must share the road.

The village picture is the village at the foot of the Dangkrek Mountains that form the northern border of Cambodia with Thailand and Laos. Prasat Preah Vihear sits on the mountaintop.

It's 4-1/2 hours between Siem Reap Town and Preah Vihear now absent rain...a 1-day trip! Amazing.

I shot some pictures along the way. Enjoy!

KOK TA CHAN VILLAGE PIGS - KIDS' POWER

2009-08-09T02:14:00.000-07:00

JULY 30 - The couple proudly led us to the pig pen where I saw 4 pigs. Typically we place 2 piglets to a pigpen, but one pigpen is not completed. Four beautiful pigs! It's mid day...hot. Mostly they are lying in the shade of the roof and rouse for a picture only when my sound and movement around them provokes them.

I ask about the health of the pigs, if they had any sickness or any or any problem to take care of. No problems...no sickness at all. They are fed and watered three times a day...and showered from time to time to cool them off. This is not hard because the pigpen is built at one side of the well for near access to the water.

We usually place 8 pigs each year, but this year 10 pigs have been sponsored. On April 19 I went to speak about the Cambodia Project to Brodhead UMC and was surprised by the amazing Sunday School children with a check for more than $350 and the story of their months of saving their money to buy a pig. What fun they had "building" pig after pig piece by piece as their money accumulated and anticipation mounted. I heard there were pigs on the walls everywhere to watch how the project was going and to help everyone remember the project. Their big and successful efforts buys 7 pigs!

7 precious pigs for 7 families...a life changing event for Khmer family. The family can raise the 2-3 month old piglet on rice hulls and vegetables for about 9 months, then sell at market for $600-$900 (depending on the market season). This gives the family enough money to buy a piglet or two more and money for food, medicine, school fees for children, clothes for family.

Thank you, amazing Brodhead UMC Sunday School, for your generous hearts and long efforts to raise money for 7 pigs for Khmer families...changing lives in a big way for poor people.

KOK TA CHAN VILLAGE - WELL AND TOILET

2009-08-09T01:42:00.000-07:00

JULY 30 - More precious gifts from Wisconsin people to poor families in Kok Ta Chan Village. I leave the car and walk the pathway from the road into a cluster of houses greeting people along the way. Children always curious gather round and follow me; I must look like the Pied Piper! I don't hurry, being careful to acknowledge everyone I pass and not to miss any opportunity to be a good ambassador. My adrenalin runs even as I try to calm myself for what I'm about to encounter. Will our precious gifts be well taken care of? What will I meet in this place? Always these questions!

It's not long and I can clearly see the colors and shapes of a well and toilet. They're beautiful. As you can see for yourself, they're loved. The family that greets me--as others are working in the fields this morning--are gracious and elegant. Khmer are a gentle people. So stark a contrast to the horrific Pol Pot Regime.

After greetings, I "examine" the well and toilet. I thank the people for taking good care of the well and toilet and tell the families that the People of Wisconsin wish for them that the well and toilet will provide safe cool water for them for many, many years and long lives for all of them!

The families say many, many, many thanks to the People of Wisconsin for thinking of them for a well and a toilet. They express their highest thanks by saying they wish the God will give good health to us, that we make lots of money for more wells and toilets for Cambodian people, that Wisconsin people are honorable to make such gifts to Cambodian people, and that God will give us long lives.

The families bring us fresh green coconuts, one end sliced off, straw inserted, as a cool drink. Jungle villages have lots of coconuts! They can gather them immediately, open one end, insert a straw and offer a cool beverage to visitors. These families in addition offered us lunch as we sat under a cool thatch roof and sipped green coconut water!

KOK TA CHAN VILLAGE WELL AND TOILET

2009-08-06T22:03:00.000-07:00

JULY 30 - Our stop after Kok TaChan Primary School is a well with VN6 model pump and a toilet for a group of families. They hear our car doors and meet us as we walk the pathway from the road to the well through the cluster of houses. Everyone is greeting with traditional Khmer "chim reap suar" and "soxabai" simultaneous with hands raised palms together and bowing. Then begins the many, many thanks. I take this all in, paying attention to each person, and respond on your behalf, Good People of Wisconsin.

This year we are building 1-room toilets, otherwise same design and construction materials as 2-room toilets in prior years. This is a modification we're making because of the resistance of several or more Khmer families to cooperate fairly in the cleaning and maintenance of toilets over the long term. Even with training and followup to education, the cooperative model is difficult to "sell." We ask the Khmer families not to use their usual tools for cleaning of sticks, stones, sand, but rather to use the brush, broom, pail and dipper.

If you look closely in the picture of the well, you can see the toilet beyond.

When we arrive this morning, the well and toilet are spotless. There are flowers and herbs planted around the perimeter of the well.

Side picture of the toilet lets you see the settling tank and the concrete foundation to elevate the toilet from flooding and critters. The water tank provides water for flushing the toilet, washing hands and cleaning the room.

The toilet is a sanitary and safe place for families, especially women and children. Without a toilet, people must walk away from their houses, dig with sticks, then cover afterward...leaving this to dispersion in the frequent Cambodian rains...accessible to tracking around even farther by people and animals. Especially at night, it's dangerous for women and children when scorpions and snakes are about.

With the wells and toilets come domestic hygiene and sanitation training and health kits for all families on the well. We do this to promote a safe environment for children to grow up in.

KOK TA CHAN PRIMARY SCHOOL - KIDS' POWER

2009-08-06T03:01:00.000-07:00

JULY 30 - I was up early preparing for an 8:00 a.m. meeting with our well driller and water resource consultant, Mr. Chea Phan, at Teuk Sa'at Organization office north of Siem Reap Town.

We spend an hour going over the details of the 2009 project. One good thing about so little rain this rainy season -- Teuk Sa'at Organization is far ahead of schedule on the progress of the project. Originally scheduled for work from March through early December 2009, the project is 85% completed. We review pictures of the project sites, the stages of construction, formation of maintenance-repair and cleaning teams, quality control issues, and compared budget and actual costs. We decide to do some upgrading of the 10 sinks that we installed at Kessararam Primary School in May 2009. Otherwise the quality and design of our work and structures are excellent!

Our plan for this morning is to go to Kok TaChan Village, a village where we began developing basic infrastructure in 2004...step by step: wells first, domestic hygiene, then toilets, sanitation and trash containment, nonhybrid seeds, and pigs.

Those are the nuts and bolts of the story. The real story is the many, many special and generous people of USA and Canada who make this possible. I am a messenger and representative and I carry with me the message to the Cambodian people that many people in Wisconsin, Canada and Stockton, CA give money to make this possible. But as Chea Phan said to me one day when I was protesting my picture on the signs at some wells, "You are the face of the Wisconsin people here." I never forget the responsibility this is. This is going to be an emotional day. No matter how many times I visit our villages, energy is high, people are so grateful and I can scarcely take in all that we accomplish.

Our first stop in Kok Ta Chan Village is the primary school, recipient of a clean water well funded by the students of Clairmont Elementary School, Stockton, California. These amazing students fund a charitable/humanitarian project each year. They located the Cambodia Wells project on the web, researched the project, and selected it to fund one well for a Cambodian school. They prepared... clearly lots of prep because in their 2-week fundraiser, they raised enough money for 3 wells: 2 Afridev model pumps for high volume use ($1200+ per pump), and 1 VN6 model for ordinary volume use ($875) plus 2 sinks.

I cannot see this little school building so far from the main road. The picture is taken from the entrance gate to the school grounds. It is the only primary school in Kok Ta Chan Village. It was given by the Nagoya Naka Lions Club of Nagoya, Japan, in 2001. It is school to 268 students and 6 teachers. By mid July exams are underway and only a few students and teachers are at school. I spend time talking with the teachers and students, visiting their classrooms, asking students about them and complimenting them...going between Khmer and English to coax some of their English from them.

Included with the well are 4 health kits: plastic bucket with lid only for carrying water from the well, metal kettle with lid only for boiling water for drinking, rake and hoe to help with trash containment. A health kit is officially presented to each of 4 teachers.

This is an Afridev model pump on the well, suitable for high-volume use. A laminated color picture of the beautiful students and teachers of Clairmont Elementary School will be laminated, then placed under the plexiglass at the upper left of the sign at the well.

We'll be adding a hip-high wood fence with a couple openings around the outside perimeter of the well area. They've already planted flowers and herbs around the perimeter.

The teachers and students say "thank you very much" for this well, for the clean water. I wish you could hear their voices and see their faces and bright eyes as they say thanks many, many times for this gift of life...wonderful clean water for the students and teachers at Kok Ta Chan Primary School from the Clairmont Elementary School students in Stockton, California.

There is now clean, safe water for the children at the school. Some of these students go home to go home to families served by our wells. Now the teachers and students can practice healthy hygiene habits day and night whether at school or at home to reduce sickness and disease and promote a healthy long life! disease and promote a healthy long life! Way to go, fabulous Clairmont Elementary School!

CAMBODIA STYLE

2009-08-05T19:21:00.000-07:00

JULY 30 - It's easier getting an extended visa these days. Until a couple years ago, I could only get it by going to Phnom Penh. Now a few tourism agencies in Siem Reap Town can do this for me in the same amount of time it would take me to do it myself in Phnom Penh. Today, I stopped by Tourex Asia, who did this for me last year. They can arrange a 1-month, 3-month or 6-month extended visa. But to qualify for an extended visa you have to know that your original visa cannot be a $20US 30-day tourist visa. Your original visa must be a $25 30-day business visa. (I learned this the hard way and it cost me a lot of red tape and delay in Phnom Penh one year.) Within 10 minutes I was on my way. I had left my passport and paid $47US for a 1-month visa extension. No forms to fill out. My passport with extended visa will be ready for me to pick up in 3 days. Yes, Sunday...businesses have regular hours 7 days a week except government offices, banks, schools and some nongovernmental aid-humanitarian-development organizations which are closed on Sundays.

When I awoke this morning I was eye-to-eye with a gecko on my pillow. I'm not sure what attracted the little fellow to this spot. Must be a "toddler" stretching his horizons and hasn't learned the rules...stick to the walls, ceilings and windows!

Music outside this morning. Hmmm, not funeral music...not wedding music. Does not sound like the music for the pagoda candle ceremony...

A storm galed through town...first rain in days. I happened to be back in my room at the guest house after afternoon classes to shower and eat when I heart a whomp! against the building. I looked outside at the bent trees and black clouds. A few minutes later it was raining cats and dogs! We do need the rain. A gentle rain would be helpful so as not to swell the Siem Reap River too quickly and flood houses along its banks. It rained most of the night...next morning, water everywhere and flooded houses on east bank of Siem Reap River.

SIDEWALKS ARE NOT FOR WALKING

2009-08-03T21:37:00.000-07:00

JULY 29 - In several years past, I've written about Siem Reap sidewalks. There is no limit to their uses, and seemingly no ordinances to control.

Many Siem Reap sidewalks, as well as streets, have been improved in recent years and they would be really fine--and safe--for walking now.

However, their use has remained largely the same...for displaying wares and parking vehicles. Walkers must navigate the edges of the streets while dealing with beggars and sidewalk hawkers and avoiding bicycles, motorbikes, tuk tuks, cars and trucks. This is where a picture is worth a thousand words! Check out both sides of the street.

Pat Lyon was the original author of the email title and the idea some 7 or 8 years ago. It continues to fascinate me that Khmer haven't caught the idea that their beautifully tiled sidewalks could be safe inviting walkways for tourists as well as their own children and families.

KHMER SHADOW PUPPET THEATER

2009-08-02T23:30:00.000-07:00

JULY 29 - The German Peace Center is located on National Highway 6 just west of Siem Reap Town. It was established to promote peace, literacy and self help for Cambodians.

It hasn't changed since my first visit 9 years ago or so and the same lady still manages it. A shop selling fair trade items made by Cambodians is just one aspect of the Center. I make it a point to check out the Center whenever I'm in Siem Reap. Usually there are a few items I can't resist buying...and because it's fair trade, I do!

Cambodia is trying hard to recover its traditional arts. The Center is one of the places teaching the art of traditional Khmer shadow puppet theater. These are nonarticulated puppets made of leather openwork in various sizes to as large as 2 meters high.

Dating from before the Angkorian period, shadow puppet theater along with the Royal Ballet and mask theater is considered sacred and used to take place only on specific occasions 3 or 4 times a year, such as Khmer New Year, the King's birthday or the veneration of famous people. After the fall of Angkor in 1431, the shadow theater evolved beyond a ritualistic activity to become an artistic form while retaining its ceremonial dimension.

The puppets are made from a single piece of leather in a special ceremony for each character representing gods and deities. The hides are dyed with a solution made from the bark of the Kandaol tree. The artisan draws the desired figure on the tanned hide, then cuts it out and paints it before attaching it to 2 bamboo sticks enabling the dancer to control the puppet.

Performances traditionally take place at night outdoors beside a rice field or pagoda. A large white backdrop is held between 2 tall bamboo screens in front of a large fire or, nowadays, projectors. The shadows of the puppet's silhouettes are projected onto the white screen. The puppets come alive with precise and specific dance steps. The performance is accompanied by an orchestra and 2 narrators. Inspired from the Reamker, the Khmer version of the Ramayana, the performances stage scenes of this epic, which may last several nights and require up to 160 puppets for a single presentation.

Many of them were destroyed under the repressive Khmer Rouge regime which almost annihilated this sacred art. Since 1979 shadow puppet theater has been gradually revitalized thanks to the few surviving artists. So far, 3 shadow theaters have managed to rise from their ashes transmitting the knowledge and skills related to puppet making.

When I visit the Center I think I'm just going to look around at the fair trade items. This day when I arrive when artisans are in various stages of preparing puppets. When I see the painstaking hand work of the artisans, I can't resist taking pictures even though I have many pictures from prior years.

I hope you enjoy them as much as I do for the remarkable patience, steady hands, number of steps, hours and precision required to bring one to life!

NOT FOR A WEAK STOMACH - KHMER ROUGE TRIAL

2009-07-29T04:01:00.000-07:00

JULY 27 - I've been catching snips on Cambodia tv of Khmer Rouge trial which began February 2009. Cambodia tv station apsaraTV is carrying the trial live. This morning I settle in to watch for a couple hours. I thought you'd like to see what I'm seeing although the quality is compromised because these are pictures of the tv screen.

This is a specially built court outside Phnom Penh. The trial is open and the courtroom is full with several hundreds of victims. I'd guess many people who want to sample the proceedings will never get in.

The international tribunal ("Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia") was agreed to between the Kingdom of Cambodia and the United Nations after Cambodia's National Assembly and Senate finally approved the terms. Cambodia delayed approval for 7 years insisting among other things that more Cambodian judges sit on the tribunal than the United Nations wanted.

Although the genocide crimes date back 30 years to the period April 17, 1975-January 9, 1979, 98% of 537 Cambodians surveyed want to have the Khmer Rouge Tribunal and 63.1% believe it will bring them justice. [August 2004 survey by KID] More than 1.7 million Cambodians died from starvation, overwork and execution.

The highest ranking living Khmer Rouge leader is Kaing Guek Eav, former prison commander known as Duch, now 66 years old. He was commandant of the notorious S-21, Toul Sleng, formerly a high school in Phnom Penh, where he oversaw the deaths of nearly 16,000 men, women and children.

As exhibits are entered as evidence, tv viewers can see them. Some are simply too gruesome to include in this post. This series of pictures of S-21 victims following their deaths by torture, starvation or execution is just a small part of one page. Duch was asked if he recognized any of these people.

A week or so ago when I caught a short segment of the trial, Duch was explaining pictures/exhibits of S-21 prisoners tied to 4 iron bed frames in one small cell with each having his blood drained into 4 large pouches. Duch said they did this with prisoners at S-21 whenever "clinics/hospitals" in Khmer Rouge camps ran out of blood and requested S-21 to provide some. The judge asked how many prisoners had their blood drained like this. Duch replied there were about 20 that time.

On intake each prisoner was photographed, height measured, weighed. All this was meticulously written down. One might think it odd that there are extraordinarily comprehensive written records. It's because most of the high leaders of Khmer Rouge were teachers who had been educated in Paris.

English, Khmer and French are the languages of the court. I can listen to a judge questioning in English as well as hear the Khmer and French interpreters. There is a short time between the question and the beginning of Duch's reply while he hears the Khmer interpretation. The judges are distinguished by black robes, except the presiding judge wearing a red robe, all with the long white cravat. There are men and women judges and the presiding judge speaks French.

For several years, Khmer people have told me they think there will never be a trial of the Khmer Rouge. I hoped there would be. Now my hope is their hope: That this will bring them justice.

YEAR END EXAMS CAMBODIA STYLE

2009-07-28T01:27:00.000-07:00

JULY 22 - I've stopped teaching English classes for the rest of this week and for next week. July 27, 28 & 29 are final exams for students all over Cambodia. Because of high corruption among teachers who monitor exams, teachers are moved all over Cambodia. E.g. many teachers from Phnom Penh end up in Siem Reap Town schools and other provinces. Teachers in Siem Reap Town go to other provinces. Yes, for about a week teachers all over Cambodia are staying in hotels and/or guest houses all over Cambodia. Every year like this.

Students are assigned to a particular school in the area where they live, a room number and a particular table. Teachers are also assigned to a particular school and room number. On Sunday morning before July 27, the list will be posted at each school. The list has the names of all the students who should take their test at this school with each student's assigned room number and the table number. On Sunday students must go to each school in the area until s/he finds her/his name on a list.

Cambodian students know the drill. If you're a student outside the general primary and high school and university daily classes--GED or Tourist Guide, for examle--it's negotiating time with your exam supervising teacher. If you're number 1 in your class every semester, you don't have to negotiate because everybody will know that you will pass the 3-day exams. I've been told by students that even if you pass the exams, you will fail if you don't pay. And if you fail the exams and pay the bribe, you'll be sure to pass unless you haven't written at all on your exam papers.

The student will be negotiating on Sunday after s/he finds out who his/her supervising teacher is. Once the price is set, anywhere between $500 and $1500 depending on the school grade/level the student is testing for, the student will deliver the money to the teacher on Monday morning. The higher the level, the higher the price. The supervising teacher will assure that the "paid" table numbers are reported to Phnom Penh so that the student passes.

Families who don't have money have no choice. Others borrow what they can from family and friends to assure passing the grade and getting the precious certificate.

I watch CTV sometimes, Cambodia's national tv station. I hear the Kingdom of Cambodia Minister of Education pleading for teachers and school administrators to honor proper channels and to upgrade the educational system for the sake of students and the Country. I wonder if they have ears to hear. When a supervising teacher shares $1500 with a Phnom Penh exam certifier...and this happens thousands of times over every year...I wonder if they have ears to hear.

5 TO A ROOM

2009-07-28T00:59:00.000-07:00

JULY 21 - Light, lack of it, how it's used...affects me...you know waxing and waning of the moon, candlelight, etc. So moving from a second floor interior room after a week to the third floor corner room at the front of Siem Reap Riverside Guest House is a great day! There is a wood (thin wood) wardrobe I can hang my blouses in and 2 drawers. Yea, I can finally unpack...not only my clothes, but the one suitcase full of fabric, thread, first aid supplies and personal care items.

I am not alone here. I share the room with 4 geckos, 2 adults, 1 mid sized, and one very tiny thing about 2 inches long almost translucent. The guy in the picture is the tiny one. Mostly they inhabit the tops of the walls and the ceiling...I think it is warmest there. They seem to like to be between the drapes and the windows and behind the air conditioning unit at the top of one wall. Sometimes a tiny one is in my toilet/shower room. I don't know if he's the same one.

When you can't see them, you can hear them. They "talk" - something like a frog, not a bull frog. This is a more delicate and melodic sound. Well, it's hard to describe. We don't have anything like it in Wisconsin.

Some geckos grow to 2-1/2 to 3 feet long. They're called "duc tou." They talk, too, deeper sound and very distinct. They, too, like to inhabit tops of walls somehow able to keep their massive weight up there, but these guys are often outside and on the ground, too.

FASTER THAN FAST

2009-07-28T00:18:00.000-07:00

JULY 11 - Sam and his interpreter Prem and I and my interpreter Mony set off for a 2 pm meeting Saturday afternoon with teachers and administrators at Kessararam Primary School ["KPS"]. Yes, Saturday is a regular school day in Cambodia! I had already met with the teachers and administrators so they were ready for Sam.

Sam evaluated the records needs of the school and recommended a computer system and useful programs. In the meantime teachers and administrators had been surveyed to see who would commit to a week of computer training with Sam. By 4:30 pm we were on our way to abc Computer System to purchase a complete computer set up.

During the same time the teachers brought chairs, desks and a table for the computer into a small office with a white board. They rearranged the room to make it a workable, if "tight," classroom. I can't even get all the people in the room in one picture!!

And the teachers selected 8 teachers to be in Sam's class so that by our return to KPS at 5:30 pm there was a classroom! To make the most of Sam's week in Siem Reap Town, classes were scheduled twice daily at 9-10 am and 3-4 pm for Monday through Friday.

You can read more about Sam's classes and his other Cambodia experiences on his blog from a link on this blog.

FASTER THAN FAST - PART 2

2009-07-28T00:14:00.000-07:00

JULY 20 - Sam crunched a lot of information about Microsoft Windows, Microsoft Word and Microsoft Excel into his twice-daily five days of classes with the teachers at Kessararam Primary School. But we knew more was necessary for good and well-learned skills.

On Sam's last day, Sam, Prem, Mony and I met with the teachers at the end of Sam's last class with them to talk about followup.
They were eager to do so. But as usual in Cambodia, where's the money? Sam and I know this and had already decided to pay for a maximum of 3 teachers to continue classes.

Quickly we were on Mony's phone to our "go to" Khmer computer resource...Bun Ly, owner of abc Computer Systems. We're asking whether classes would be better at KPS or at abc Computer Systems, cost per student, duration of course, what to cover in the classes, etc. An abc Computer Systems instructor could hold class at KPS; the disadvantage is that there is only 1 computer. The KPS teachers could go to abc Computer Systems where they teach classes and have a computer for each student. Moreover abc Computer Systems had no class going at 9-10 a.m. Perfect...same time, different location as the teachers' class with Sam.

While we're consulting with Bun Ly about possibility of classes for KPS teachers, the teachers themselves are taking in our side of the phone conversation and caucusing. The teachers ask if we would be willing to send 4 teachers to computer classes...2 women and 2 men, and the 4 will share what they learn with the other teachers. Sam and I agreed.

Within minutes, Sam, Prem, Mony and I with our 4 teacher-students were headed for abc Computer Systems to register them for computer classes to begin the following Monday morning, 6 days a week, for 2 months. The classes would cover Microsoft Windows, Word, Excel and Power Point. Cost per student: $35US.

Monday morning I headed for abc Computer Systems and found our 4 students, Mrs. Van Marath, Mrs. Ngin Chankrisna, Mr. Pat Un and Mr. Muy Rachna, at their computers in class with their instructor. I was happy with the instructor, a fellow who was followup to Sam's pioneering of computer classes at Khnar Thmei Church 5 years ago when we established our relationship with abc Computer Systems and bought our first computer. Because of the distance from Siem Reap Town to Khnar Thmei Church, at that time the instructor went daily to the village to teach classes to 10 students.

At the end of their first class, the teachers realized they had stayed more than 1-1/2 hours and said it was because they were so interested! Happily their instructor hung in there with them!

DENGUE FEVER, MALARIA AND ?

2009-07-27T23:21:00.000-07:00

JULY 13 - Even with the no-rain rainy season, there is plenty of water laying around Cambodia for a high dengue fever and malaria season. One other terrible thing especially for infants and toddlers here. Many young children get this infection I do not yet know the name in English. It was described to me as inflammation of the lining around the brain. I see some of these children. They are lethargic and listless.

If parents can get money, they can take the child to a clinic and get the medicine administered, get some oxygen and then get sent home with the oxygen tubes in place in the nose. I'm not sure yet how all this works. Clinics and hospitals are now administering this medicine routinely to infants and children.

I think this is a dangerous year for infants and children in Cambodia.

NO SUCH THING AS DISTURBING THE PEACE

2009-07-25T22:25:00.000-07:00

JULY 11 - If there's music in the air, it's Cambodia! This is the third morning I've awoken to traditional Khmer music...played from dawn to about 8 pm...maybe 2 blocks from Siem Reap Riverside Guest House where I live here.

Each kind of celebration has its distinct melodies and combination of instruments, so Khmer people can tell immediately the kind of celebration by thge music that is played. It floats throughout the neighborhood as a kind of invitation/announcement. Khmer traditional music is based upon the polyphonic stratification of several musical lins and melodies based primarily upon 5-tone scales as compared to the 12-tone scales familiar to our western ears.

My first couple years in Cambodia, I could not distinguish the melodies, instrumental ensembles, whether sad or happy...it all sounded minor key and haunting. Today I know this is not funeral or wedding music, but I cannot otherwise identify it except to know it's a happy occasion. I learn it's a candle celebration. This is a celebration a family mounts to consecrate large...very large - 4 foot tall and 6 inch diameter...candles that will be carried by the family, guests, monks and nuns in procession on the third day from the house to the pagoda.

While most celebrations are religious, many take place at home and the monks come to the home to chant and pray for the ceremony...wedding, blessing of new house, blessing of child on 1-year birthday, 100 day anniversary of funeral, 1 year anniversary of funeral, e.g....or at least start at home and end at the pagoda on the last day...funeral, consecration of young men to become monks, pagoda candle celebration, e.g.

Almost any Khmer celebration is 3 days and the family that mounts the celebration must provide food and drink for guests, stipend for the monks, rent tables and chairs and some sort of overhead shelter from the sun and rain, engage Khmer traditional instrumentalists and vocalists.

So poor families may never have an optional candle celebration. In the case of a funeral or wedding, some families with not so much money, maybe a 2-day celebration, and for the very poor, just 1 day.

A QUANTUM LEAP FORWARD

2009-07-25T03:56:00.000-07:00

JULY 11 - A hint about what we CAN do for Kessararam Primary School ("KPS") this year came in the meeting yesterday.

It's end of school year. My Teacher Readers will know well what this means. The teachers are "closing the books" and preparing necessary reports to the Siem Reap Provincial Ministry of Education. Stacks of yellow-cover books, 1 per student, and summary reports were accumulating in the office for validation. ALL record keeping and reporting is done by hand writing. Kessararam Primary School is responsible not only for its 1507 students, but for 4 outlying primary schools as well. KPS has no typewriter or computer. Actually no primary school has a computer. Some high schools "yes."

Not only do the teachers and administrators spend countless hours handwriting the student data and reports, but any mistake or erasure means the Ministry of Education will send the paper back to the school to be redone perfectly!

I probed about the format and data in the student record books and the reports. I looked through some student books and was shown sheafs of handwritten pages reporting to Ministry of Education. My mind is whirling about the countless human hours required to create this redundancy and how the magic of the electronic spreadsheet would improve efficiency, accuracy, retrieval, and release the teachers for more time WITH the students!

I thought this was a perfect application for a computer in the school office. None of the teachers or administrators at KPS knows how to use a computer. I know this will change their world forever!

Before I commit to the project, I want to get Sam Pritchett's opinion; he's got the expertise to thoroughly assess and implement. Sam arrived from Texas late last night and we're meeting for breakfast this morning to talk about best use of his 1 week in Siem Reap.

Check out Sam's blogspot via the link on my blogspot.

CHECKING IN AT KESSARARAM PRIMARY SCHOOL

2009-07-25T02:38:00.000-07:00

JULY 10 - I prepare for this day with high emotions anticipating familiar faces in familiar places. For me the question is always "what difference do we make?" Kessararam Primary School in Siem Reap Town is such a place. Summer 2008 we put a well with Afridev pump (high volume use model) at the School for the 1507 students grades K-6 and 42 teachers. May 2009 we installed 10 sinks in 10 classrooms for teaching and practicing good hygiene.

Because of poor funding for Cambodia's Ministry of Education and because foreigners prefer to help rural schools, many needs of larger city schools go unmet. Kessararam Primary School ("KPS") is prone to frequent flooding from runoff from more recent development on all sides which built up the land before building on it including a large pagoda on the south and National Hwy 6 along the front/west. It seems there is always standing water on the school grounds...in rainy season as much as a foot...no way to get from the street to the school or from building to building except through the water. This year is not normal rainy season, in fact no rain for days at a time so there is minimal water on the school grounds right now. KPS is hoping for landfill. This project would cost $13,000US. I write about this and other issues but I am mindful of our primary focus on clean water, good hygiene and sanitation, adequate and safe food, and education to improve health, reduce disease and death, and improve outcomes for a good future. I always listen politely and ask questions to get enough information, but when necessary as in this case I explained to KPS the primary focus of our work in Siem Reap Province.

KPS has 9 buildings, 1 building with school offices and a library and 8 buildings w/5 classrooms each, 2 of concrete covered brick and the remainder of wood, all with tile roofs. Tiled roofs of several of the buildings have holes which let the rain fall into the classrooms year round. Two of the buildings are closed to use now because too much rain falls into those classrooms for it to be healthy for the children. Cost to replace tile roof for 1 building is $6000US.

PICTURES: Top: Students passing between classes. Middle: Bicycle parking on the north wall of Kessararam Primary School. Bottom: Young students breaking at the concrete game table at the school.

July and August are vacation months for primary and secondary schools and universities/institutes. Still all the teachers are at the schools 6 days a week and many students attend in the mornings. These students have not yet successfully passed to the next grade. They are studying for and getting extra help from the teachers for their exams.

SAME SAME BUT DIFFERENT

2009-07-24T22:04:00.000-07:00

JULY 9 - New for me this year, to get to Siem Reap I traveled on Korean Air via Seoul. For about 3 years now South Korea has trade/commercial agreements with Cambodia permitting flights directly from Seoul to Siem Reap. I took advantage of this Chicago-Seoul-Siem Reap...cut 10 hours off my airport/air time and avoided restless Bangkok.

Just like the novel T-shirts they sell in Cambodia, Siem Reap is: SAME SAME BUT DIFFERENT. You get the full effect when you see "same same" on the front of the T-shirt and "but different" on the back!

Siem Reap population in 1998 was approx 500,000. Today it's 900,000.

New rules of the road that all motorbike drivers must wear helmuts. Traffic police do pull over and fine any motorbike driver they see not wearing a helmut.

Siem Reap Town has alternate sides of the roadway parking laws, even numbered days one side, odd numbered days the other side. Local traffic police make a handsome supplement to their monthly government salary by enforcing this law. Siem Reap Town has a particularly successful policeman, the infamous Mr. Veng [R in picture], who with his unusual height for a Khmer is powerful and feared by the ordinary people but not so much by people who have money...because if you have money you can pay the fine, whatever Mr. Veng says--on the spot, of course, and then you're free to go. No writing up a ticket, no appearance at traffic court, no sending in the fine to the clerk of traffic court. You have no money or no driver can be found, the new tow truck tows your vehicle to a fenced municipal lot where you can pay a lot more to get it back.
Siem Reap urban area is now officiallydesignated "Siem Reap Town" as are several other larger villages, primarily provincial seats, such as Battambang, Sihanoukville, and Kompong Cham.

Regular gasoline in Siem Reap is $.89 a liter, or $3.33 a gallon.

Cambodia's currency is quite stable over the last 10 years fluctuating between 4100 riel and 4350 riel to a USD. This morning I bought groceries for $8.70 US and paid 36,584 riel with four 10,000 riel notes.

I'm at the Siem Reap Riverside Guest House on the south side of Siem Reap Town. When I arrived, they said I'd be moving to a different room and floor in a couple days when it becomes vacant. For now I live out of suitcase. I brought 2 suitcases, 1 is full of thread, fabric and first aid supplies.

Continue the Dream

2009-07-01T18:20:00.000-07:00

Welcome to the Cambodia Wells Plus Blog. You will find updates on current projects, details about past projects and information on ways to get involved. Please also use the comment section to show your support or ask for more information. We are just getting started here so come back often to see this summer's project take shape. Deanna Shimko, missionary to Cambodia, will be traveling July 7 through August 23. Read her tales here and learn about how your gifts are being put to work providing clean water wells, toilets, seeds, piglets... All this advances the health and welfare of the people of Cambodia. Their dreams are a reality because of a gracious God and a people willing to step forward with prayers, lots of elbow grease, and monetary gifts.

Caldwell United Methodist Church in Mukwonago, Wisconsin (45 minutes Southwest of Milwaukee) is the hosting site for many events benefitting Cambodia Wells Plus, but the support the project has received has come from as far away as Stockton, California and Canada. The thousands of people that have received clean water and the thousands of people who keep the project going are connected together as one body. Cambodia Wells Plus proves that in the world you may be just one person, but to one person, you just might be the world!

Keep Dreaming, People of God!

Sincerely,

Pastor Grace Baldridge

www.caldwellumc.org
Caldwell United Methodist Church
Proud Sponsor of Cambodia Wells Plus